CMC Loop

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Tom Sander's "CMC Loop"  Report

Tom has completed the process of hiking Cave Dog's original route of 303 miles plus closing the loop by walking back on the AT from the Roan Highlands to Clingman's Dome for a total mileage of 460.

The CMC-Western North Carolina Loop, hiked by Tom Sanders in 25 days between Aug. 6 and Sept.8, 2003. The total length of the Loop is 460-470 miles. The Loop is a new concept for the CMC and was envisioned to include some of the best trails in WNC as well as to climb the 40 peaks over 6000 ft. An important stage in its development was when Cave Dog set a record for climbing the peaks and followed an itinerary that began at Clingmans Dome, went through the Smokies, across the Plott Balsams, along largely the Mountains-to-Sea Trail to Mt. Mitchell, through Burnsville, and finished at the Roans. The Loop adds about 170 miles of the Appalachian Trail to close the circle. It is hoped that the Loop will appeal to future hikers who want a challenging and rewarding hike of up to a month or who would like to do it in sections. The following description is from Tom Sanders. The virtue of a Loop is that you can begin anywhere on it. I decided to start at Mt. Pisgah Parking Lot to get 2 beginning days of relatively easy hiking and also on the 6th day to be at home for Mary Lasher's birthday. 

Daily Notes

Aug. 6. Began around 8:00 am at the Parking Lot and followed the MST 17 miles to the French Broad River Bridge. This is generally downhill over the trail that is well-maintained by the CMC. I finished around 3:30 pm and went home. For future hikers not from Asheville there is a camping area on NC 191 a short distance from the bridge. 

Aug. 7. Another 17 miles along the MST around Asheville and up to a point where the MST touches on the Blue Ridge Parkway 3 miles above the Folk Art Center. 

Aug. 8. The first really difficult day. Started where I left off, 2 miles below Craven Gap at about 2800 ft. and reached a height of 5600 ft. With downs as well as ups, a total of well over 3500. Following the MST by Rattlesnake Lodge ascending over Rich Mtn, which was badly overgrown, Lane Pinnacle, and by 4:00 at Craggy Picnic Ground. About 1.5 miles beyond, near junction with Douglas Falls Trail, camped out. 15 mile 

Aug. 9. Continued on MST, climbed Craggy Dome ( the most difficult I've seen it because of growth ) and Blackstock Knob. This is a very beautiful area of MST with at times great views. Beyond Blackstock left MST to bushwhack around north side of Potato Knob and on over Mt. Gibbes along Old Mitchell Trail ( no longer on maps ), across Stepps Gap, bushwhack up Hallback and finish up Mt. Mitchell. Perhaps 13 miles, but a lot of uphill. Since camping area at Mt. Mitchell was full, had arranged to go home. 

Aug. 10. I was met by 4 CMC members wanting to climb the peaks north of Mitchell: Alan Franks and wife, Angie Buie, and Janet Martin. At 8:30 set off and reached Deep Gap in about 2 1/2 hours, crossing Mt. Craig, Balsam Cone, and Potato Hill. Then up Winterstar where the toughness really began. The trail beyond there is terribly overgrown and difficult to follow. I must have fallen 10 times on rocks or roots that I couldn't see, but no fall serious. Also very rugged terrain with rocky peaks. Much of time light rain. Finally reached Gibbs Mtn, which I had previously climbed twice and thought not difficult, but now very overgrown and serious bushwhack. Went up Celo Knob, then down Bolen Creek Trail. I was feeling good and also wanting to reduce my next day walking from Burnsville to Buladean, so went ahead and on Bolen Creek Rd covered 2 miles to within about a half mile of Burnsville. Though a difficult day, it was a pleasure having such good company, and we had a sense that it had been fun and rewarding. About 15 miles.

Hi guys, I'm back home after 4 days for a rest, which I'll explain in a minute.

Aug 12. After valiantly trying to persuade myself and you that I should hitchhike from Burnsville to Hughes Gap, I decided during the nite to walk it instead. I think the theory of the Loop should be a continuous walk that includes all the high peaks. Mary dropped me about 1/2 miles on the Bolen Creek side of Burnsville, and I walked to where 197N leaves 19E and off I went, really pouring it on. I don't know how it was possible, but I did the 12 miles to Red Hill in 3 1/2 hours. Except for one long hill at the beginning, it's generally flat and easy. After lunching at the Country Store in Red Hill, I continued on to Buladean, 7 miles, picking up another sandwich at a store on the way. I was getting tired by the time I reached the Hughes Gap Rd. It's continually up, but not steep, and I got to Hughes Gap, where there's a good water source on the TN side, but no campsite. I loaded up on water, started N on the AT, and about 1/3 mile up found a site by the trail for the nite that reflected obvious use by AT hikers.. Total about 24 miles.

Aug.13. I stashed my pack in a tree and headed north to the Roans. Early in the am and without pack, the rise wasn't bad, though steep in places. When I reached the crest, I detoured to Roan High Bluff ( I had forgotten it was 1 1/2 miles, I thought it was a few hundred yards on the Cloudland Trail), then Roan High Bluff, out to Grassy Ridge, then back, picked up pack and went another 2.5 miles from Hughest Gap to Clyde Smith Shelter. There were a lot of people walking around the Roans, including the Old Timers Club from Johnson City. I was alone at the Shelter, but that's good because I can strip, wash, and get clean. Total for the day, about 22 miles.

Aug. 14. This was all on the AT, going by Iron Mt. Gap, over Unaka Mtn., and the Beauty Spot.

Whoever planned the trail over Unaka in this direction deserves credit because it's gradual and well-graded, compared with some of the smaller mtns like the steepy just south of Iron Mtn Gap. I had decided that if I got to Beauty Spot in decent shape by 3:00 pm I would continue on down the 7 miles, generally downhill, to the Curley Maple Gap Shelter. By the time I got there, I was pretty beat. Again, alone in the Shelter. 21 miles By the way each of these nites I tried to call Mary on the cell phone, but for your info there's no contact

Aug, 15. Down 4 miles to the Nolichukee River. At the hostel there Charlotte, wife of the owner Johnny, shuttled me 2 miles to the store to get what I had intended to be 3 more days food. As I was packing up, she said, I can feel the humidity already ( someone told me later it was over 90 that day ). It was also there that I finally reached Mary by cell phone. She had really been worried. My plan was to go past 19W over the High Rocks and camp at Whispering Gap, for 17 miles. Well, if you know that section, it starts with about a 1200 foot climb up Temple Rock, which wasn't too bad because it is very well-graded, but it's still 3 miles up.. By the time I got up that 3 miles, it was noon, and as the afternoon wore on, I began to get really tired. The route is generally up, picking up another 1000 ft or so, so with the downs and then ups, I probably did 3000-3500 ft that day. By 3 pm I had decided that when I got to 19W it was time to take a break home ( 2 days because we have guests for dinner on Sun evening ). Beyond 19W you have to go up the High Rocks, about 700 ft of one of the steepest places on the AT in our region. I honestly felt I couldn't do it. So for the day I did 15 miles. I hitchhiked 10 miles to a country store where I could call Mary, and I enjoyed a good meal and shower last nite.

I know what you're thinking. 80 miles in 4 days is too much for an old man, and you're right. When I restart Monday, I'll reduce the pace a bit and maybe come home more often than I had originally planned. I'm in good spirits and enjoying the challenge and pleasure of the trail. Trips we should consider (Bruce) are Hughes Gap to Iron Mtn Gap, Beauty Spot and Unaka Mtn., and US 19W to Nolichuckee ( preferably in the down-N-direction). Surprisingly, my chief physical worries, falling and turning ankles, just didn't happen at all the past 4 days. My chief problems are tiredness late in the afternoon and a blister on my little toe that just isn't healing because it keeps getting bumped. At this stage, the Loop looks for real, and I hope I can finish it. Best, Tom

Hi Guys, To bring you up to date, I have now been out 14 hiking days, occasionally being ( like today, Aug. 23 ) at home, and have completed about 250 of an estimated 470 miles of the Loop. The first stage was 5 days ( Aug. 6-10) from Pisgah Parking Lot around Asheville and across Mitchell to just short of Burnsville. This route included climbing 11 peaks over 6000, from Craggy Dome to Celo Knob. 

The second (Aug 12-15)was from that point thru Burnville to Buladean, where I got the AT at Hughes Gap, then north to the Roans ( 3 peaks), then south 44 miles on the AT to Spivey Gap ( US 19w), where I was really tired and went home for 2 days. 4 days. At least 3 of those days I did 20 or more miles. No wonder I was tired. Now, the latest phase. In 5 days ( Aug. 18-22) I have walked the 91 or so miles the AT maintains on the AT, beginning at Spivey Gap and ending up at Mountain Mamas in Waterville. What a great trail! And how well-maintained, considering the heavy growth from the rains! All of us CMC'ers should be proud of the maintainers. At Spring Mountain I ran into the crew working. Those grand old men of our club, Ed Dunn and Felix Metzger, both well up in their 80s, were there doing their job. At certain places the growth was more than one could comfortably walk in shorts ( it's understandable ), but I especially want to cite the quality of 3 sections: one, my old Jones Meadow section, now maintained by 2 persons from Greeneville,TN, and including the Firescald Relo. Just in great shape. Two, from there down to Allen Gap. Three, the section from South of Bluff Mtn to the Pigeon River, 25 miles, all comfortable and beautiful hiking, with evidence of recent weedeating of the growth. So here are the details.

Aug. 18.  Spivey Gap to Hogback Ridge Shelter. 15 miles. I really enjoyed this section because I'm not as familiar with it as I am the areas further south. Big Bald is of course a feature and a 2000 ft ascent. This was, however, for me an easy day. At Sams Gap whom should I encounter but Morgan Summerfield? He apparently was driving by and saw what looked like a lost hiker emerging from the woods -- me. 

Aug. 19. To Little Laurel Shelter. 20 miles. I loved this part because it is the great section by the Shelton Gravesite and my old AT section. I also had the pleasure to going for the first time over the relo and admiring the views and the great rockwork. But man, is this part slow going! It will be a great foretaste for future northbounders on the AT of what they'll face in northern NH and southern Maine. Congratulations to all who worked on the relo, which is certainly a major highlight of the AT in our region. 

Aug. 20. To Hot Springs. About 19 miles. A very familiar section. The first mile from Allen Gap up to Spring Mtn is as always steep and tough, but traveling light, as I do, about 20 lbs, makes it easier. Tanyard to Hot Springs is also one of the beauties of our trail section. I had originally intended to stay in Hot Springs with Mary, but I got there about 4:00 and we decided to go home for the evening. 

Aug. 21. To Roaring Fork Shelter. 15 miles. I have an old map which doesn't include this Shelter, and I assumed it would be half way to the Pigeon River, about 18 miles, but it's only 15. I got there at 3:30. Fortunately 2 other northbound hikers from Atlanta stopped to fix an early dinner before continuing a couple of miles, so we had nice talk. By the way, there have been very few hikers on the AT during my spin. This is a familiar section that I love, the section to Garenflo Gap, up Bluff ( the hard side, with a half hour deluge ) and on. 

Aug. 22. To Waterville, about 20-21 miles. I was worried about the difficulty of this because of Snowbird, but direction south is the easy way. Unfortunately, both Max Patch and Snowbird were clouded up, preventing views, but the first part of this section, from Roaring Fork to Max Patch, is exceptionally attractive and a CMC feature hike. I'm now at home and looking forward to tomorrow, 

Aug. 24, and the ascent into the Smokies. I have decided to get off the AT and take an alternative route, up Big Creek Trail ( that gorgeous stream ) and Camel Gap Trail up to the AT shortly before I have to climb Old Black and Guyot. . There are at least 3 reasons. I think outsiders will opt for this route rather than continuing the AT to get the permit for camping in the Smokies. Second, this route is much more beautiful. Third, while it is about 2 miles longer, it is easier, more gradual, and less uphill on a day where to get to Tricorner Shelter, you have to go from 2000 feet up to over 6000 feet.

 I am more and more convinced that the Loop is a great thing and will be a pleasure and challenge for future hikers, combining as it does the best of WNC hiking with the 40 peaks beyond 6000. I'm feeling good and am surprisingly strong, and now that I am slightly over half way thru the route, I assume, that barring mishaps, I will finish. Dave Wetmore is kindly meeting me in the Smokies to bushwhack up some of the toughest peaks. So onward! For someone who loves hiking, the beauty of the trail, the trees, the scenery make this a fabulous experience! Best to all, Tom

Hi Guys, I have just emerged after 6 days in the Smokies. It was really exciting to hike some of the great trails there. Here is the account.

Sunday, Aug. 24. Mary deposited me at Mountain Mama’s, where I had left off on Friday afternoon. I had decided not to do the AT from the Pigeon River but rather the Big Creek and Camel Gap Trails. I am now totally convinced this is the correct route for the Loop. Most of you know the Big Creek and the beautiful stream there, but probably not Camel Gap. It is 4.1 miles and runs for most of its length along the upper reaches of Big Creek, which are nicer than the lower ones. It also has great views back toward Mt. Sterling. Furthermore, for the info of all, this route is absolutely the easiest way to get from the 2000 ft. level at Pigeon River up to the 6000 ft. level of Tricorner Knob Shelter. Just as the Big Creek Trail is very gradual, the Camel Gap continues that gradualness. Moreover, once you reach the AT, the section from there on is gradual. In short, it was the easiest 4000 ft ascent I’ve ever had – at no point was it steep. Once on the AT I climbed Old Black and Guyot (don’t try to come directly down off the summit, lots of briars – we’re still trying to figure out the best way to get that mountain), then reached Tricorner Knob Shelter, to find Dave Wetmore. A really good day. 16 miles.

Monday, Aug. 25. Most on the AT. Left Tricorner, stepping on Sequoyah on the way. At Pecks corner stopped to get some water and talked to a nice couple from Slovakia ( people from everywhere now hike our mountains!). From there to Charlies Bunion is one of the most beautiful sections of the AT, an area called the Sawteeth, very narrow trail with wonderful views off in both directions. Reached Boulevard Trail, climbed Kephart (tripped on a root and banged my knee on the way up ), then back along the Boulevard to Leconte. As most of you know the Boulevard is also one of the most beautiful trails in the Smokies, esp in the upper part. As I came up to the Shelter, there was a gorgeous male deer with horns. Touched the cairn at the top of Leconte. Had pleasant evening talking to Methodist minister from TN who had studied under one of my closest friends in graduate school. 18.5 miles. Probably 19 counting the water expedition at Pecks Corner, that shelter is way down.

Tuesday, Aug. 26. Back down the Boulevard Trail, esp enjoying the rising sun as I started down. Got to the AT and passed by Newfound Gap, then on toward Clingmans Dome. Good trail, good day. At Clingmans I talked to a number of people, including some young people from Lithuania and a really nice couple from PA. Then back down to my destination, Mt. Collins Shelter. I was alone there, and there were signs all over the place about bear activity and entries in the journal about visits from a bear, so I pretty much stayed behind the cage.. About 20 miles, counting the 0.5 that the Shelter is off the AT and the 0.3 or so to get water.

Wed., Aug 27. Today’s hike was all on the AT, a repeat of what I had already done. This is the longest in-and-out on the Loop, but there is no alternative if one is to get major peaks like Leconte and Clingmans. From Tricorner, which was the base on Mon morning, you have to go about 24 miles to Clingmans and back the same as well as 5.4 in each direction to Leconte. I don’t think that this is any great problem because both routes are very beautiful and worth traversing twice. At Newfound Gap I met Mary and we enjoyed an hour or so together. She had brought me clean clothes ( though they get sweaty within an hour ) and food. This was a very tiring day. There are a numbers of peaks beyond Charlies Bunion which don’t figure on the maps but are 5500 or so ft high, and you have to get over all of them. There are at least 3 that are preliminary spurs to Sequoyah. When I finally got to Chapman, it was a pleasure to dump the pack and climb it. Dave W was there at Tricorner, along with a diversified group of good folks hiking various stretches, but if you get to that Shelter, it means you’ve done some serious walking. 21 miles

Thurs., Aug. 28. The easy day, only 12 miles, but climbing 4 of the more difficult peaks over 6000. I had the company of Dave on 3 of them, and I’m very grateful to him for being with me. We began with Tricorner, which always seems to be a problem because you can never come down the way you go up. We then took on Mark’s Knob, which has become easier because so many people have been going there lately and knocking down the brush. Dave had also developed ( as I think Cave Dog did ) a route that avoids the gap between the 2 summits and heads directly for the real summit. Anyway, we did it in 1 hr., 50 min., and I think it was the only time I’ve ever enjoyed it. Then, on down Balsam Mtn Trail to Laurel Gap Shelter. Dave had to get home that evening, so I left my pack and went up Cataloochee in a light rain. It was about an hour and a half round trip from the Shelter. I was alone at the Shelter, but it’s very beautiful there, nice setting and clean Shelter with a good water source.

Fri, Aug. 29. Came down the 4.3 miles to Pin Oak Gap. If any of you want to see what a disaster horses can do to a trail, the upper 2 miles of that is a perfect example. It’s awful. I started up Balsam Mtn Rd, when pickup with 2 Park rangers in it passed. I told them I was planning to take Polls Gap Trail, and they were emphatic against it. They said there had been no upkeep for years and that about a half mile up it became an impenetrable wall of briars and blowdown. They also said there were no plans ( money ) to restore it. This convinced me that the Loop route should not do Polls Gap Trail, but as I did, continue up the Balsam Mtn Road, which is about 8 miles from Pin Oak Gap to Heintooga Overlook. Actually the road, which is one way and a very smooth gravel, is pleasant walking, in no way steep and in many places level, with good views and beautiful woods to the left on the upside. The pavement from Heintooga to the Plotts is the 2nd major road walk on the Loop. It is desirable to break it at Soco Gap, as I did. Outsiders could stay at the motel just over the Cherokee side or walk or hitchhike into Maggie Valley for accommodations and food supply. It is 8 miles on what I think is officially called the Heintooga Ridge Road, but it is a gentle down practically all the way, then 2.5 miles on the Parkway to Soco. This road section is of course designed to be scenic, and there are really nice views to compensate for pounding the pavement. 23 miles

Well, I’m now at home enjoying Mary, decent food, and a rest. Tomorrow, Sun., I plan to tackle the Plotts, beginning at Soco, go down the gravel road from the gap between Plott Balsam and Lyn Lowry, and come home from Balsam Gap. I’ll see how I feel then whether I plunge the 4-5 days necessary to finish. I am now about ¾ thru the Loop, have been out 20 days, climbed 27 of the 40 peaks, and have gone over 350 miles. I’m somewhat sore and tired, and have lost 15 pounds (the awful camp food I eat never compensates for the energy I put out ), but this has been a great adventure and such a pleasure to hike these wonderful trails that bless our region.

Hi guys, Today, Sunday, Aug. 31, I got up all ready to go out to the Plotts. Unfortunately, my lower back was hurting any time I moved it. It must have developed as some kind of association between the strain of carrying the pack and sitting around reading yesterday. Anyway, I think the trail thru the Plotts is the worst thing to try today, with all the bending necessary to get over and under the blow down and then a long downhill. I don't think it's serious and hope to get on the trail to finish the Loop as soon as I feel more-or-less normal. The chief prerogative I am insisting as I do the Loop is to rest at home when necessary. I'll keep you informed, but I'm eager to get on to showing the Loop is doable and by any reasonably strong hiker. Tom

Hi guys, After a 3 day rest to see if my back recovered, I resumed hiking the Loop on Sept. 2.

Sept. 2. Starting at Soco Gap at 7:30 am, I walked 4.5 miles up the Parkway to Waterrock Knob Parking Area, then went to Yellow Face, returned to Waterrock, and then followed the trail across Browning to Lyn Lowry. It was as awful as ever and exceptionally badly overgrown in places. The infamous house seemed unoccupied, so I scooted past and on up to the Cross. I then went down the other awful path and on to Plott Balsam. Rather than go up the grassy woods road the last time I was there on Amy's hike and then cut up into the ridge, I noticed an opening right at the beginning of the ridge and followed a